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Monday, November 27, 2006

Being a Muslim..sort of

(First of all, for the Malaysian bloggers who have been invading this blog with the Chinese vs Malay debate, please move your debate somewhere else. Thanks.)

We all know that religion is a great deal in this country. I remember when I mentioned casually in this blog that I was agnostic, I received quite a reaction, which was pretty surprising although kind of expected.
I never imagined, however, that my religion (or lack thereof) would be an issue too during my recent trip. I mean, I did expect questions about Islam, the teachings, relationship with terrorism (yaawn) and so on. But I didn't realize that people (and more surprisingly, journalists) would be that ignorant about Islam and Muslims, which made me understand a bit of why Muslims are so angry with, specifically, "Western" people.

"Are you Muslim?" asked each of every single fellow to me, the Indonesian. I said, jokingly, "Yeah, sort of." And then they would frown, "What do you mean?". And so I said that I was raised Muslim, but I'm not religious, even kind of agnostic. Strangely, that answer seemed like a foreign concept for some of them, but since it was only the first days of the trip, they didn't ask more questions.

If we ate out, my colleagues kindly enough picked restaurants that also serve other meals aside of porks. I told them I ate pork too, so never mind, and they would look at me like I was some kind of alien. "How come? You're Muslim!". Err.. didn't I tell you earlier that I was agnostic?

Later on, questions rose one by one, and finally, on a bus ride in Bangkok, I gave up and said to two colleagues who frequently asked me about Islam and Muslimness, "OK, what do you wanna know? Shoot." They jumped from their seats and move near mine. They fired questions of how come I became agnostic, how come I wasn't religious, did I agree with polygamy or not, and so on and so forth which was a bit irritating but I tried to explain to them. Boy did I wish the Pakistani fellow was there to help me.
At the end, I said to my colleagues, "I guess you guys were raised Christian, right? Do you still go to church? Why is it so hard for you to understand that Muslims, or people who are raised Muslims can be moderate or even unreligious too?"
I really blame Bush administration and media for spreading the Islamophobia. For putting the image of one single type of Muslim on people's minds all over the world.

Like I said, I now understand why "real" Muslims and hardliners are so upset with Western people. Although I still despise fundamentalists and hardliners and their violence way, but rather than not wanting to have something to do with them, I now think that there's something missing in a way we're dealing with them. I don't know how yet, but there should be another way to reach them.

In Bangkok, we met politician Surin Pitsuwan, a very sharp and charismatic man, a former foreign affairs minister who happens to be Muslim. With the unrest of Muslim in the Southern Thailand, Pitsuwan said that the rest of Thai people often wondered why the Muslims in Thai don't understand that secularism is the best way for the state.
"It's not them who didn't understand the rest of us, it's us who don't understand or refuse to understand them. Maybe before globalization, it's not our problem. But now, their problems are our problems too, so we have to think a way to understand and reach them," he said.

Another note, although I now have detached myself from the religion that I was so strictly brought up with, somehow I still feel connection to it. And whether I like it or not, apparently, it's still part of my identity, like what my friend said: religion that we grew up with is like our birth mother. You can be away from her, or be close to her, but she's always be part of you.

Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Japan super kawaii



Due to increasing demand (taelaa hehe), I have to shrug off slacker mode and write the details of my trip here (I haven't even started writing for the paper yet. Oooh, malaaas). I'll start based on the sequence of the countries. After the U.S., next is Japan.
Btw, since it's not really a holiday trip and most of the time were spent by meeting people and also field trip (to slums and nursing homes, not Disneyland), it won't be a travelogue with a list of cool places to go to and stuff like that, but more of what I think is the highlights of what I learned from each country in the fellowship. In other words, there's big chance that you'll find the following entries are boooring :)

Japan vs national identity

I met a lady around my age (yes, 30something) on a Tokyo subway. We chatted about a lot of different things until we came to the topic of Americans. Though a US university graduate, the lady seemed to be irritated with the Americans in general and their superiority complex. “Americans think they know Asian culture but they actually don’t know anything,” she said.
Then she told me that she was annoyed by an American colleague when the latter found out she was about to host several Peruvian visiting Japan. “You know what my colleague said? She said, ‘Oh my god, do they speak English?’. That’s just so American, you know. I told her, ‘It’s not a problem, cause I speak Spanish,” she said, pouting.

Nowadays, there seemed to be a growing sentiment of nationalism among Japanese. They are rethinking about the post war period. They are worried about who Japan is, and this emerging sentiment also has something to do with rivalry with China and Korea. With China especially, over "who represents Asia" in the world.

Check out the comments from Vice President of Kikkoman (pabrik kecap itu lhoo hehe), Kenzaburo Mogi, who also co-chairs the Committee on Population Issues:
"All countries, while maintaining cultural identity can still be globalize and become melting pot. But I don't think we'll be that interesting in global values (unless we maintain the homogenity, culture and religion as Japanese have been known all these times). I don't mean to be racist, but it's important to emphasize on maintaining the culture and religion to be a solid country."

The sentiment of national identity also appeared among younger generation, through popular culture, like manga. There was intolerance over the external criticism, as young people feel that why Japanese should apologize all the time for past wrongdoings. But instead of hardcore nationalism, what emerged among young people is what experts called "tongue in cheek nationalism."

This growing nationalism, and the desire to maintain homogenity, also influenced the policy on migration. Japan has very strict migration regulation to keep migrants from staying in the country. The problem is, who will do unskilled jobs? Who will take care of the aging people, whose numbers are growing while fertility rate continue to drop?

NEET


Meaning young Japanese who are Not in Employment, Education, or Training, this phenomena was totally new for me. In Japan, this has become a major social issue because around 850,000 people aged 15-34 (or one in 40) are neither working nor studying. So, what are they doing? Ya, nongkrong2 gitu deh kayak Pak Ogah. Or staying home all day. At first glance, sarcastic and judgmental me who came from developing country with a lot of hardship (halah) thought of the NEETs as spoiled brats. But let’s see what caused the phenomena:


1. The past 10-12 years have been a turbulent period for Japan’s economy (but how come it’s still one of the richest countries in the world?). Some companies enjoy profit, but others had to lay off their employees. During this time, companies relocate to other countries or downsizing. Robotic technology also takes over, which somehow made Japan’s manufacturing doesn’t require human force.

Younger generation today (20s and 30s) is the first group who experienced prolonged recession. Upon graduation from high school/university, many found it hard to get jobs, although they have good education. The labor market is fiercely competitive, and it’s an unstable employment situation for young people.
On the other hand, there’s an issue of mismatch between university and industry requirement. Some graduates are oversupply, especially engineering, environmental science, Asian studies, economics and sociology. Graduate are also not trained and prepared. It’s not a recession per se, but Jap’s economy is further and further going into global economy, so they need employees who can compete globally.

2. Product of spoiled parenting, the shortcoming of parenting in Japan (told ya! J). Most of NEETs come from families with fewer children, with parents who are pretty affluent who can afford good education. Parents didn’t push them to work right away, and more than happy to accommodate them for a while so most of the young people still live with their parents. Parents ask children to strive for their passion, and don’t stay in jobs you don’t enjoy. That somehow mislead young people.
In the words of my American fellow who stayed in Japan for over 20 years as journalist, young Japanese are not “hungry” anymore.




3. Kei Kudo, who helps organize NEETs and help them to get job and provide training, despised the notion that NEETs are spoiled rich kids. Many of NEETs, he said, come from middle class (there’s no lower class in Japan). Many NEETs are so stressed out of not having job that they develop skin disorder and mental disorder. Some got really sick because of work pressure (yang emang gila di sono) and long work hours, and leave jobs eventually.
Some are young women who have to stay home to look after grandparents, others are returnee from foreign countries who have troubles in reintegrating into society.

4. Prof. Akira Takanashi of Shinshu Univ. once said that “The NEET phenomenon is a quiet rebellion of young people against society. If the campus struggles of the 1960s and 1970s represented a conscious form of protest, the characteristic of NEET is its unconscious quality.”
He added that society, including circles and education were responsible for the outbreak of this phenomenon. Schools are absolutely lacking in information about work and occupational education.”
“It’s no good just telling them not to play the baby,” he said. “The most important thing is for society to change and get closer to these young people.”

Sunday, November 19, 2006

It's a wrap!

Sunday, November 12, 2006, 8 a.m.

I’m at the new (and huge but rather confusing) Bangkok’s Swarnabhumi airport (again). Sleepless and exhausted, but delighted to be home soon. I so can relate to those musicians on the road for tour. It has been an eye-opening and enriching trip this past month, but I miss home so much. I’m sick and tired of packing and unpacking, dragging my suitcases from one city to another, cold meeting rooms, airports, airplane’ food, Indian food (never a fan). I can understand why celebrities like to trash their hotel rooms, cause I’m so sick of hotel rooms that I feel like doing the same thing.

I’ll get into details of the trip later. Right now, here are some stats and facts during the one-month trip:

Numbers of luggage at the beginning of the trip: 1 medium suitcase and 1 backpack.

Numbers of luggage at the end of the trip: 2 medium suitcases, 1 big box and 1 backpack (didn’t have to pay for overweight at New Delhi’s airport, don’t know why, but thank god!).

Numbers of hotels I checked in: 7 in 7 cities (Lincoln Hall in Honolulu, Tokyo's Shiba Park, Hiroshima's Granvia Hiroshima, Novotel in Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Crowne Plaza Surya in New Delhi, and Jaypee Palace in Agra).

Number of times I was in Bangkok: 4

Number of hotel key I lost: 1, in Hiroshima and had to pay $50 :(

Numbers of companies during the trip: 10 other fellows (only 2 were men) and 2 East West Center staff (a Pakistani fellow had to withdraw from the program cause he failed to get both US visa and Indian visa. His name is Muhammad Nasir. Take care, man, wherever you are.)

The country I like most: Japan – the food, the toilet, the vending machine, the gadget s, the fashion….and being an order freak: the order, the punctuality.

The most fascinating country: India – the mysticism, the vibrant democracy, the schizophrenic economy, the paradoxes in society, the rich culture and history …it’s a definite journalists’ haven!

The best place to shop: All over Bangkok and New Delhi’s Dilhi Haat. Btw, each group/party in India has a strong identity sentiment. So, you’d get big discount plus bonus in Muslim shops if they found out that you’re Muslim too :).

The biggest purchase when shopping: a bike (yes, a bike :) ). It’s a very cool, folded bike that I bought in Hiroshima for around US$75. My good friend from Solomon Islands, Priestley -- one of the two men in the group -- helped me carry it around the countries afterward. Big thanks for you, bro!

The most convenient mode of transportation: Shinkansen train from Tokyo to Hiroshima.

The best food: Japanese. Although nothing beats Indonesian food. Local Hawaiian food is too meaty, and that purple taro pasta called poi is just weird. Indian food? It's OK to eat it like once a month, but three times a day for one week? Diare booo.

The most intriguing person I met: A young, Kashmiri man who became child soldier after witnessing Indian soldiers raided houses in Kashmir and beat the hell out of his father. His father, a liberal farmer, got worried and sent him to school in Delhi, where he is now working. I’m dying to go to Kashmir, everyone I met said that it’s a paradise on earth.

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